Leh Trip

We (I and wife) started our trip to Leh – Ladakh on 20-09-2015. Leaving home at 0400 for the GoAir flight at 0615. We ate parathas brought from home at airport. Boarding was smooth. The flight was eventless and landed at Leh on time.

The airport was tiny from any standards.

We were not aware that "Ladakh Festival-2015" was being held during our visit. There was a traditional welcome. We were given a piece of white cloth to be wrapped around neck by a traditionally attired Ladakhi woman and man, which was their way of welcoming guests.

A prepaid taxi (Rs.250/-) took 10 minutes to reach "Khan Manzil Guest House", which was located in downtown. It was a family run guest house (Rs.1200/- per night). The guest rooms were on first floor, while the owners stayed on ground. The rooms were clean, hygienic but spartan. Attached bath was complete with hot water available all the time (it is another thing that you have to run the tap and let the water flow for few minutes, before it shows any traces of warmth). There were two apple trees loaded with hundreds of semi ripe apples, which would take another 45 days to be ready for eating. There was no food available, but one could get tea (Rs.25/- a cup), toast, egg on demand, and waiting could be 15 minutes. One could also get  his own food warmed (Rs.20/- per item). The owner Mr. Zahir, was a friendly person and had all information on tourism of Ladakh. The family ladies were not making any conversation with guests

We were advised to take complete bed rest for first day to acclimatize for the rarified air with low oxygen. But the temptation to see the inaugural function of Ladakh Festival overtook caution, and we walked to the polo ground (half kilometer - Leh has no local transport, although the town is quite well spread). The function was spectacular with traditional dances and other shows. We were surprised that despite being a public show, all guests were served light refreshments.

After a light lunch, we returned to GH, and by 4 PM, we had severe headache due to HAS (high altitude sickness). We retired and slept almost for 16 hours without any dinner etc.

Next morning. our first excursion to Nubra valley began. On an innova car (4 passengers plus driver, Rs.9000/-) we started at 0830. The first stop was at Khardung-La pass (40 km from Leh). It was bitterly cold outside. The air had little oxygen. I had severe nausea and vomited. Wife too had much difficulty in breathing and almost collapsed on car seat. There was a lone tea shop run by military and nothing else, except army barracks. After a few minutes halt, we drove on to a village called Khalsar  It had a few tea shops with a rivulet flowing by. We had regained some strength, and had tea.

There was a big army base with soldiers in uniform, all around. I asked one of them about the life there and he said that that there was no shortage or complaint. They had good accommodation and the food was plentiful including dry fruits etc. From here onwards we drove on to Diksit along the Shayok river (a small river compared to mighty rivers of Uttarakhand). The river meanders in the valley (Nubra) with mountains on both sides.

The mountains are just rocks. Not even a blade of grass. I wondered how can anyone find any beauty in this barren desert. To me they appeared just ugly and frightening. In fact I wondered that these mountains were cursed, that no vegetation or wild life inhabits and they have only company of snow. But many persons find beauty in this scenario of rocks, naked mountains and moon like surface.

I took a break and walked up to river bank, asking wife to join, who had still not become comfortable after breathlessness of Khardungla pass. I was really scared to be in such a place, which was so much against life.

At Diksit we visited Diksit Monastery. There was a  large statue of Budha. We did not

enter monastery. which required strong limbs to go up all the stairs, and paid our obeisance from down below.

Diskit was a small town. We could find only one dirty shop, where roti and dall was available. The wise thing would have been to return from Diskit to Leh. But we were sold to the idea of visiting Turtuk, whose only importance was that it is the last village of India (it was part of pakistan before 1971 war). Therefore after an ardous 6 hours drive on gravel roads, we reached Turtuk. It was a small village with power being supplied for four hours and only for lights. A local entrepreneur has started a tent hotel. The normal tariff is Rs.3000/- per night but with hard bargaining, we could get it for 1500/- (free simple dinner and breakfast - as there is no other place to eat). We spent the night in one of the tents, and started early morning for return to Leh.

We stopped mid way at 'Under', where one can see double humped camel (Bactrian camel) and have a joy ride on it. Wife refused to come out of car. She was too tired.

The next stop was the Khardungla pass. It had started snowing. We came out of car for few minutes for photo shoot.

I had nausea and started vomiting. The road was so bad that I was wondering that screws which have been put in my spine during an operation should not become loose and my all effort was to keep my neck and spine straight in the bone jerking drive for almost three hours, with severe cold. With an almost broken body, we reached Leh back and slept after eating a few biscuits and a cup of tea.

Next day we went around Leh. The notable spots among them were confluence of river indus and Zanskar, Pathar Sahab Gurudwara, Magnetic Hill, Leh Palace, Hall of Fame (Indian Army) and Spituk Monastery.

Next day we went to Shey Palace, White lotus school (an expensive school - made famous by the film three idiots), Hemis monastery.

Again we took a long journey to Pangong Lake. It is a salt water lake where no aquatic life can survive. The reflection of sky and surrounding hills makes ir beautiful.  It was very cold and windy.

It became very famous after the last scene of 'three idiots' movie was shot here.

While returning, we spent some minutes at Changla pass (third highest in world). Very cold. The journey was bone shattering and each muscle was aching, when we landed at our GH.

It defies common sense and logic that two wars were fought (in 1962 with china and Kargil) for these barren mountains which have no minerals, agriculture, potential for hydro electricity or any other form of wealth. Thousands of young persons of India, Pakistan and China died, with snow becoming red with their blood in these two wars, not to count thousands of others who were wounded and maimed. No limits of Insanity of humanity.

We spent last day relaxing and then it was time to leave

Bye Bye Leh

Moral of the story: Ladakh is not fun tourism. It is adventure. Definitely not for old and weak. Aclimatization may take few days. Availability of food, health care, toilets is poor. Roads are bad. Weather is cold, windy. Things are expensive (average cup of tea at Rs. 20 to 30).